Paris Haute Couture Week: A Recap
As Haute Couture Week has recently commenced, a few top designers have claimed great attention in Paris. Shows such as Dior, Channel, and Schiaparelli took an interesting approach to what Haute Couture meant to them. Dior’s “Big Aura,” Channels “The Button,” and Schiaparelli’s “Schiaparalien” each annotated transformative fashion on the big stage. Let’s dive into how each show brought new life to the world of Haute Couture.
BIG AURA
This collection was a surprise, encapsulating somewhat simplified looks, even some pulling original silhouettes from the past. The real truth behind some of these replications, however, is what gave so much weight to the show, truly showing no original piece can ever be duplicated quite the same. Dior’s pieces are meant to hold different figures of the wearer, depending on their natural look. Because of this, the garments brought to the stage were incredibly diverse and held individual meanings within their own. Replicated amongst the walls of the showroom, the fine line between art and fashion is combined. Murals of vibrant dresses, patterns, and characters create a backdrop for Dior’s Haute Couture line, blending atelier and inspiration into one.
THE BUTTON
There is something compelling about origins and tradition, which are precisely the foundations Chanel lays on. Something as simple yet complex and sought after as the Chanel button has the power to inspire an entirely new collection. The primary focal point of the show was a monumental Chanel button with muted colors decorating the remaining space. Each entrance to the runway began underneath the masterpiece, dividing the gaze between the garment and the button. Tweed, white tights, and black kitten heels maintained most of the collection, along with tulle, which was a pleasant surprise. Here, there was also contrast priority amongst the base of each outfit. More often than not, the repetition of tights and heels wouldn’t be found in shows as most designers seek stark differences between each look. However, Chanel’s repeating theme almost emphasized the different looks even more, giving similar components the ability to create contrast. The uniformity and cohesive appeal of the show were what curated most of the press attention. While new concepts were not necessarily being brought to the stage, the renewal and modernized aspects of dated materials such as tweed and ballet tights ensured immense revival and life within the creative walls of Chanel.
SCHIAPARALIEN
Schiaparelli’s technological inspiration was installed into modern fashion, creating a line no one could have quite predicted. Amongst exaggerated silhouettes, ample metals, and integrated machinery, this show was unlike any other. Heavy contrast appeared to be one of the themes across the collection, mixing metal clasps with floor-length fringe, a-line dresses with shoulder pads reaching above the head, and of course, an all-white look paired with an “alien” child. It’s difficult to comprehend how scientific discoveries can be implemented into fashion, but here, we see that it is possible. According to AnOther Magazine, “...Daniel Roseberry took inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s uncle Giovanni - known for his groundbreaking observations of Mars - as well as his own Texan roots”. These diverse and decorative approaches to introducing scientific and family-rooted themes into Schiap’s collections were huge shifts for artistic director Roseberry. This boldness and newness was additionally a jump from what the brand had originated on, yet it carries on the creative quirks of Elsa herself.
Streamlining themes across these shows carries on the boldness and glamour that is Haute Couture. As always, it’s nearly impossible to predict what may be seen on the runway each season, yet it’s always expected to be something spectacular. The beauty in couture is that it isn’t meant to be replicated and, therefore, commemorates the greatest artists, designers, and creators known in the fashion industry.
