Apparel Advisory Board Member Spotlight: Tess Davidson
Six questions answered by our featured Apparel Advisory Board Member of the Month, Tess Davidson.
#1 Briefly summarize your career path and your current position.
I started my career with the menswear brand Nautica at VF Corp. I had just finished an internship in the merchandising department and was offered a job on the sales team. I worked on a sales team that sold into the Military Exchanges on bases internationally.
I had been working at Nautica for a couple of years when my mentor (whom I met while participating in FSF Scholarship) called me one day and said she needed a planner and asked if I would be interested in applying. I had zero experience in planning but had been exposed to the planning team at Nautica, so I was vaguely familiar with what they did. I told her that if she was willing to teach me, I was willing to learn. So, I left Nautica to work at a girl's dress company. I worked there for six years. I started in planning, crossed back over into sales, and then eventually was managing sales, planning, and our Ecom platforms. It was a small company, so I wore many hats and was exposed to every aspect of the business. It was a great learning experience. I always talk about that time in my career because it really allowed me to be curious about how the business is run, and I hold dear my ability to understand the "global picture" and to see how each role fits into the puzzle. I also know way too much about the cost of tulle, grosgrain ribbon, glitter, and bows!
While I enjoyed wearing many hats, I got to a point where I was doing too many things and didn't know which path to take in my next move. I was very conflicted on whether I should choose sales or planning. So, I made a bold choice to pick up and leave NYC for an opportunity back in Birmingham, AL. It was a departure from my experience, and I was moving from wholesale to retail. I was using the same set of knowledge, just in a very different way. I joined Hibbett as a retail planner for their Men's Apparel department; I really enjoyed it. I loved learning a new side of the business, being part of future planning, as well as working in season reactions. I oversaw the financials, making sure the buyer stayed on-budget for each brand. I was also lucky enough to be an assortment planner during my time there. I worked closely with the buyer to build sku plans for brands such as Nike, Under Armour, and Adidas. Hibbett was growing and changing their business model from specifically sports-focused to more athleisure and street fashion. It was an exciting time to be a part of a business in the athleisure and sneakerhead culture. I learned ALOT about Jordans! I drank all the Nike Kool-Aid!
But, as they say, New York City does something to you. I was missing the city. After a year in Birmingham, I decided to head back to New York. I had a clear head and had decided that I really wanted to focus on sales. A group of my co-workers from Nautica had found themselves over the years working at PVH Corp with the men's brand IZOD. There was a position becoming available, and they all recommended me to their management team. I accepted a position on the sales team as the Account Executive for Kohl's. It was a big job; it was the largest account for the brand, with a volume of $95 million. I couldn't pass it up. It was a chance to focus solely on one account, which is very rare in the apparel industry. I decided to take it, and I have since been with the company for about two and a half years.
#2 What are the “primary” responsibilities of your current position?
One of the things I learned from my time at Nautica was that the sales team was involved in the total product life cycle. So much of the knowledge that is required to create a line comes from the sales team. We know where there are risks and opportunities from price thresholds or design elements. The sales team is responsible for bringing the line to life on the retailers' floor. It's both creative and analytical. My primary responsibilities include building a profitable business for both sides. Our industry is a business built on partnership. I work incredibility closely with my buying team at Kohl's to manage the business- I do a lot of negotiating. It's my job to push the evolution of the brand, to make sure we continue to grow, all while remaining the brand that customers want. It's not always comfortable for the retailer. It's all about balancing the Open-To-Buy and partnership. My relationship with the buyers is of utmost importance to be successful. On top of that, there are so many complexities that I must balance: deadlines, order writing, shipping, etc.
#3 What are the major challenges of your current position
I'm usually balancing three seasons at once. For instance, currently I'm working on selling Fall 2021 while simultaneously making sure the current season Fall 2020 is successful on floor. All the while, I am also working on making sure everything is on track for Spring 2021. There is no stopping- it's constant! As I stated before, sales holds all the knowledge. Since we know so much, a lot is asked of us. Management, planning, and sourcing all rely heavily on communication from sales.
#4 What competencies are necessary for success in your current position?
I think you have to be someone who can talk to people, hold conversation, and speak confidently in a way that people want to listen and believe. But it's not as simple as being a talking head. You must know the business and be able to keep up with the conversations with management. Retail math, retail math, retail math! Take the class! Know how to calculate markup! Learn Excel! I think classic traits like such as time management, organization, attention to detail, and clear communication are so important for success in sales, especially in our industry. It's so competitive, especially in NYC; you have to be able to show your worth, and those traits will definitely help you accomplish that.
#5 What advice would you offer a student interested in a career in this industry?
You have to love this industry. It's so hard, especially in the beginning of your career. But I challenge every student to pay attention to the classes they really enjoy, because there's more to this industry than just being a buyer or a designer. There are so many opportunities that you may have never thought of! Planning, sales, sourcing, production, merchandising, visual merchandising, fabric/trim development, supply chain, and so many more! Pay attention in your global production class!
#6 What current trends or issues have the greatest impact on this job/business?
The COVID crisis has made the biggest impact on our industry, bigger than the 2008 recession and the cotton crisis combined. It is affecting every aspect of business from concept to floor. It put such a strain on the supply chain, creating a backlog of production lines and delayed shipments. Stateside, we were dealing with closed retail stores and cancellations. I lost about 50% of my shipments this year due to cancellations. This crisis has highlighted some big issues within our industry and will force us to be nimbler and more creative. I believe innovation is born out of challenges, and this year has definitely been a challenge. So, here's hoping for a bright and new 2021!
