New York Fashion Week Rundown

You may or may not have been following along with the events of New York Fashion Week (NYFW), but if you haven't - let me give you a little run down. From February 6 to February 11, New York Fashion Week commenced; celebrities, influencers, fashion stylists, editors, and buyers alike showed up and showed out to the invite-only designer showcases. This monumental week is a platform for American and international brands to display their newest collections for the upcoming Autumn/Winter 2025 season, with 86 runways and presentations taking place. London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Week will follow, and Spring/Summer 2026 showings will occur in September. NYFW felt notably different this year, with the fashion industry undergoing significant changes. Established designers are returning with fresh angles, while others are stepping away, allowing room for emerging talents to rise. Current social and cultural shifts are impacting collections, and the landscape is further evolving with the new ownership of major fashion houses. So let's face it; fashion week has changed, but is it for better or for worse? Let's take a better look at how the week unfolded.

Marc Jacobs hit the ground running, kickstarting the week with his off-schedule show presented in the New York Public Library, the collection being titled "Courage" to boldly declare the brand's further embrace of creativity, authenticity, and rebellious curiosity. Not only did this create a buzz amongst fashion followers, but there was also an anticipatory air around Calvin Klein's return to fashion week, led by the brand's first-ever female creative director, Veronica Leoni. Khaite, Tory Burch, Thom Browne, Coach, and Michael Kors were among the list of consistent NYFW participants to make an appearance, and other notable brands present were Ulla Johnson, Simkhai, Sandy Liang, Pamella Rolland, and Anna Sui. 

Other designers to return this season were Christoper John Rogers, Altuzarra, and Normal Kamali, while some prominent names have instead departed for Paris Fashion Week, like Willy Chavarria, Bode, and Lii's Zane Li and Commission. Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger were not a part of NYFW and plan to showcase their new collections separately from the show. Helmut Lang was also absent, as well as Proenza Schouler, due to the original head designers rumored to have joined forces with Loewe instead.

Photo By: Hunter Abrams

Some highlights from the fashion week included Tory Burch's "twist-ed" take on American sportswear, an elegant yet laid-back collection not shy to color, or a sweat pant/blazer combination. This showing was one of the more popular debuts in the fashion week, and as of the past couple of years, securing an invitation to a Tory Burch show has been the number one priority for many. The show was held at the Museum of Modern Art, where celebrities like Martha Stewart, Alexandria Daddario, Ciara, and Jodie Turner-Smith were present. Khaite brought edge and mystery to a shadowed and yellow-lit Park Avenue Armory. Creative director Catherine Holstein focused on leather, intricate knitwear, puff sleeves, and snakeskin, trends that are sure to be snatched up when they hit the market. Waterfall coats, newsboy caps, argyle, and Leopard Print were also prominent in the show and will no doubt appear in many wardrobes this upcoming fall season. The Brooklyn Navy Yard hosted Christopher John Rogers's newest "Collection 015: Exhale," who, like Tory Burch, was unafraid to use color. Are we surprised? Not at all. You can't have a Christopher John Rogers show without vibrant color-blocking and bold energy. Per show notes, their seasonal collection was made with deep gratitude to give back to their loyal supporters, hence the "Exhale."

 New York has been quiet compared to years past as the luxury market has been slowing down, especially as brands are moving their platforms overseas. One thing for sure, though, is that the U.S. economy for the fashion industry is still exceeding China's and Europe's, and we are still attracting international brands (like Toteme and Alaia). But, for some, the cost of showing in New York is higher than its worth, and the amount of buyers and press to attend has declined, leading to designers hosting more unconventional and intimate previews where the designs could be seen up close by appointment, dinner, etc. The eclectic, edgy, imaginative, and risk-taking New York we all have come to know and love has never been powered solely by the passionate spirits of the fashion aficionados, but has also thrived with the proper funding – which we lack compared to the financial support French and Italian governments provide. 

 Despite the changes in this year's fashion week, one thing remains the same: emerging designers' fervent passion. One of them is Henry Zankov, a 2024 CFDA Award recipient. In an interview with The Grand Tourist, he explains his desire to create using "strong visual language without it feeling trendy or referencing something obvious," evidenced by his richly textured knits, artisanal elements, and effervescent color. "I want people to think a little bit about it and connect with the feeling first as opposed to connecting with a visual representation of something else," he notes. Other designers who have sparked the spark in New York's fashion scene are LeBlancStudios, Gabe Gordon, Vettese, and Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen. These talented newcomers continue to push the boundaries, and I'm excited to see what else is in store for the future of fashion in the coming weeks - both from seasoned veterans and fresh new energy.